Monday
September 25, 2000
Caryn must have sensed that good things awaited her on Monday, because
after being awakened by the diesel engine of an 18 wheeler staying
at the Travelodge, she sprang from bed to the news of a blue sky.
After a shower and a quick continental breakfast, we headed out
for Amarillo, TX and Cadillac Ranch, that famed roadside sculpture
comprised of 10 Cadillacs planted nose down in a wheat field, alongside
I-40. We got off the highway at the Texas town of Shamrock, to have
a look at the “U-Drop Inn”, an abandoned diner and filling station
along old Hwy 66. It was just what we had been looking for. The
peeling paint and faded window signs announcing “Breakfast” and
“Steaks” drew us in. The Velvia was flying thru the cameras. Even
the Hasselblad came out of hibernation from it's safe berth in the
yellow case.
And that was how the day went. After Shamrock, it was off to McLean,
Texas, once the site of the first Phillips 66 gas station,
now a 21st century ghost town, with all the telltale signs that
it was once a hot spot on the trip west. We visited an abandoned
gas station, painted in blues and red, and the Avalon Theater on
main street, with the musty smell of years past escaping from a
broken window. After poking around the abandoned locations for a
glimpse at the past, it was back to Hwy 40, and Amarillo. Once again
the fast trip was put on hold, after a billboard announced that
the “Largest Cross in the Western Hemisphere” was awaiting us in
Groom, TX. What could we do but exit? On our way to the cross
we found the abandoned “66 Courts” motel, with it's discarded Ford
pickups in front. More Velvia, and even some new batteries needed
to be installed in the GR-1's (the great little cameras that Caryn
and Mary have become quite found of). Well, we finally found
our way to the cross, and also the holy cows who lived in front
of it. Backing away from the cross in order to photograph it, we
discovered a memorial to all the “victims of abortion” As we got
closer to it, we discovered that the sculptural praying hands were
cradling a fetus, a male fetus.
A hasty retreat to the Eurovan, and we're off to Cadillac Ranch,
finally, but not without a quick roadside stop for a leftover bbq
sandwich, and a pee in the great outdoors.
After Cadillac Ranch, we had an early dinner at Taco Cabana, an
excellent fast food joint serving some wonderful fare. After a fill
up, and a bunch of U-turns, more than I care to count, we were off
to Palo Duro Canyon State
Park, home to the second largest canyon in the US. As we drove
in, we spotted a mule deer, and a fox. Farther down the road we
saw a flock of eight wild turkeys strutting along. We were assigned
to site #16 at the Hackenberry campground. $18 gave us a site w/
electric hookup, and admission for 2 to the park. After a quick
set up and a cup of coffee, and it was time to settle down for the
night. At 3am Mary needed to use the facilities, so Caryn joined
her on the short walk to the rest rooms. It was FREEZING OUT!!!
That was the first thing they noticed. Second was the amount of
stars visible in the sky. Never before have I seen so many stars
- it seemed as if the sky was comprised of bright spots, with just
some back spots scattered between. After returning to the van, we
decided that we should place the probe of the indoor/outdoor thermometer
outside, to determine how cold it actually was. We watched as the
temp dropped from 55 degrees, (the temp inside the van), down past
40 degrees, past 30, all the way down to 22.3 degrees!!! We lay
awake for a while, contemplating how it had dropped over 60 degrees
since the afternoon, when we heard the coyotes begin to howl. They
were really going at it for a while, then stopped. Awhile
later, they began again.
It was too cold to get out of bed until 9:30 am, when the sun finally
hit the Eurovan. As we exited, for the morning trip to the rest
room, we discovered that it was substantially warmer outside than
in the van. Headed up to the Chuckwagon restaurant, we we missed
breakfast, but had a good grilled cheese. Then to the park office,
to extend our stay for another night. Finally, we were ready to
hit the hiking trail, for a 4.5 mile round trip hike to the “Lighthouse”
formation. The viewpoint was nothing special, but the scenery along
the way was quite nice. After the hot, three hour hike, a nice shower
and burrito dinner was just what we needed.
Tuesday night was a bit warmer, a low of 33 degrees. We got a leisurely
start packing up, and pulled out about 11:45 am. We headed back
to the highway, and had another great meal at Taco Cabana, and we
were off to New Mexico, where it was H-O-T!
We drove Route 66 thru Tucumcari, NM, a cool old town filled with
cheap motels and neon. This looks like a great town to photograph
at dusk, but that will have to wait for another trip, when we can
spend a few days here.
We arrived in Albuquerque, NM, and after driving the strip, we decided
we'd opt for a more expensive hotel, where could do laundry. Another
coupie deal, and we're at the Best Western Rio Grande, for $30 less
than the AAA rate of $79. Hot and tired, we head out to dinner on
foot. After dinner, Caryn happily heads out to do LAUNDRY, and it's
right near our room. Three loads and a few hours later, we're restocked
with clean clothes, and Caryn has some new Scottish friends, who
were also doing laundry during their two week bus tour of the southwest.
(They had been at Palo Duro Canyon the night before also).
Delighted to have internet access, we stay up until 1 am, watching
TV, and surfing the web.
Thursday morning, and we're off for some shopping in the big city
of Albuquerque. First stop, REI, to browse the camping and outdoor
items. We come away with a great tiny tea kettle, some new shoelaces,
a boot cleaner, a keychain flashlight, and a case for Caryn's iPaq.
Also, Mary got some double caffeine Power Gels, just in case. We
also checked out some dry bags for storing items on the roof of
the van, but decided to go with the custom made bag that Kirkhams
is making for the
Eurovan Yahoo Group. Next stop, Sam's Club for a pair
of zip off pants, then Wal-mart for assorted sundries, and a set
of Lynx Levelers to level the van at campsites. After a quick bite
at Sonic Burger, washed down with a diet Lime-aide, we're off to
Santa Fe. As often happens on these outdoorsy road trips, we discover
that Santa Fe is another over-hyped tourist trap. Perhaps because
we've spent so much time in the outdoors, we're jaded by the towns
with their too many “cute shops”. Having said that, I must admit
that the stop was worth it, because Mary scored a great t-shirt
depicting a VW bus w/ the inscription “Road Trip 2000”. We have
a quick snack, and blow out of town. En route to Taos, we decide
to forego that destination, and cut NW on route 64, to get a jump
on the trip to the Four Corners. By this time, it's 7 pm, but Mary
is confident she can handle a few hours of driving in the dark.
Well, in retrospect that probably would have been a good plan if
we we're on the interstate, but these secondary roads are no place
to be after dark. After an hour and a half of treachery, not knowing
if our fate was to drive off a cliff, or hit one of many deer that
were lurking at the side of the road, we arrive in the town of Charma,
and jump at the chance to get a room for the night. Three hotels
were sold out, but Caryn returned from the office of El Meson Lodge
with a key, announcing 104. Mary almost had a stroke, thinking that
was the cost of the room, but it was actually the room number. The
rate was a somewhat more palpable $70. After a quick bite at the
cafe, it was off to bed to watch some Olympics.
Friday morning Caryn woke at 8 am, with the news of her dream that
we had bought an Airstream Argosy trailer in a divorce settlement
for $5. We were back on the road at 9 am. Route 64 wasn't as terrifying
in the daylight, but after a while it did get a bit boring. By 11
am we made it to the town of Farmington, NM, and stopped for some
humongous pancakes at the Triangle Cafe. Then it was over to Safeway
to stock up on some groceries. There is good news and bad news associated
with the grocery stop. The bad news is that the jar of Ragu feel
out of the cart, and splashed all over Caryn's sweatshirt. The upside
is that she can now look forward to another load of laundry!
We head off to Four Corners, where NM, AZ, UT, and CO all meet,
the only place in the US where four states come together. We passed
a very cool formation on the way, called “Ship Rock”, which is the
basalt core of an old volcano. We actually got to pass it twice,
due to Mary's poor navigation, and Caryn's oversight that the compass
was now pointing south, instead of north. Oh well, what's an extra
62 miles in the grand scheme of things! The Four Corners is actually
part of the Navajo nation, and so we pay our $2 per person admission
to to enter, and pose for some silly photos at the actual spot,
along w/ every other sucker who paid their $2. We also get to browse
the booths where the Indians sell crafts, and Navajo Fry Bread,
which we've sampled many times before, although then it was called
fried dough. After a quick trip to the Porta-San, Caryn affixes
UT, and CO and AZ to the map, and we're back on the road headed
to Monument Valley, UT. About 5 pm we stop just outside Utah
at the town of Kayenta, AZ, for a McDonald's sundae. While inside,
the rain catches up to us. No problem. Then the hail starts, first
pea size hail, then lima bean size! We watch from the safety
of McDonalds, and ponder our fate for the rest the evening. We decide
to head to the campground anyway, because it seems clear in that
direction, and because Mary refuses to spend $98 for a hotel room
in the town of Kayenta, which holds no appeal.
Monument
Valley is spectacular, even in the rain. Kudos to Andrea Renault
for suggesting this spot; it is definitely a great location. We
arrive at Gouldings campground, and for $23, we've got site #46.
This is camping Caryn style; we even have a cable hook up.
We make some turkey sausage sandwiches for dinner, and as we cook,
Caryn makes more new friends, as three dogs come over and lie down
at our site. They must know Caryn is a soft touch. After dinner
we built a small campfire, which we've missed due to burn restrictions
in Texas and Oklahoma. As we prepare for bedtime, we see lightening,
and decide to put our belongings in the van to keep them dry. It
turns out we only got the slightest sprinkle, but better safe...
you know. We watch the final episode of Survivor on TV, and
then fall asleep while watching John Candy in Summer Rental (a
great one).
On
to CHAPTER
FIVE!
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