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Chapter Four

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Chapter Five

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Monday September 25, 2000

Caryn must have sensed that good things awaited her on Monday, because after being awakened by the diesel engine of an 18 wheeler staying at the Travelodge, she sprang from bed to the news of a blue sky. After a shower and a quick continental breakfast, we headed out for Amarillo, TX and Cadillac Ranch, that famed roadside sculpture comprised of 10 Cadillacs planted nose down in a wheat field, alongside I-40. We got off the highway at the Texas town of Shamrock, to have a look at the “U-Drop Inn”, an abandoned diner and filling station along old Hwy 66. It was just what we had been looking for. The peeling paint and faded window signs announcing “Breakfast” and “Steaks” drew us in. The Velvia was flying thru the cameras. Even the Hasselblad came out of hibernation from it's safe berth in the yellow case.

And that was how the day went. After Shamrock, it was off to McLean, Texas, once the site of the first Phillips  66 gas station, now a 21st century ghost town, with all the telltale signs that it was once a hot spot on the trip west.  We visited an abandoned gas station, painted in blues and red, and the Avalon Theater on main street, with the musty smell of years past escaping from a broken window. After poking around the abandoned locations for a glimpse at the past, it was back to Hwy 40, and Amarillo. Once again the fast trip was put on hold, after a billboard announced that the “Largest Cross in the Western Hemisphere” was awaiting us in Groom, TX. What could we do but exit?  On our way to the cross we found the abandoned “66 Courts” motel, with it's discarded Ford pickups in front. More Velvia, and even some new batteries needed to be installed in the GR-1's (the great little cameras that Caryn and Mary have become quite found of).  Well, we finally found our way to the cross, and also the holy cows who lived in front of it. Backing away from the cross in order to photograph it, we discovered a memorial to all the “victims of abortion” As we got closer to it, we discovered that the sculptural praying hands were cradling a fetus, a male fetus.

A hasty retreat to the Eurovan, and we're off to Cadillac Ranch, finally, but not without a quick roadside stop for a leftover bbq sandwich, and a pee in the great outdoors.

After Cadillac Ranch, we had an early dinner at Taco Cabana, an excellent fast food joint serving some wonderful fare. After a fill up, and a bunch of U-turns, more than I care to count, we were off to Palo Duro Canyon State Park, home to the second largest canyon in the US. As we drove in, we spotted a mule deer, and a fox. Farther down the road we saw a flock of eight wild turkeys strutting along. We were assigned to site #16 at the Hackenberry campground. $18 gave us a site w/ electric hookup, and admission for 2 to the park. After a quick set up and a cup of coffee, and it was time to settle down for the night. At 3am Mary needed to use the facilities, so Caryn joined her on the short walk to the rest rooms. It was FREEZING OUT!!! That was the first thing they noticed. Second was the amount of stars visible in the sky. Never before have I seen so many stars - it seemed as if the sky was comprised of bright spots, with just some back spots scattered between. After returning to the van, we decided that we should place the probe of the indoor/outdoor thermometer outside, to determine how cold it actually was. We watched as the temp dropped from 55 degrees, (the temp inside the van), down past 40 degrees, past 30, all the way down to 22.3 degrees!!! We lay awake for a while, contemplating how it had dropped over 60 degrees since the afternoon, when we heard the coyotes begin to howl. They were really going at it for a while, then stopped.  Awhile later, they began again.


It was too cold to get out of bed until 9:30 am, when the sun finally hit the Eurovan. As we exited, for the morning trip to the rest room, we discovered that it was substantially warmer outside than in the van. Headed up to the Chuckwagon restaurant, we we missed breakfast, but had a good grilled cheese. Then to the park office, to extend our stay for another night. Finally, we were ready to hit the hiking trail, for a 4.5 mile round trip hike to the “Lighthouse” formation. The viewpoint was nothing special, but the scenery along the way was quite nice. After the hot, three hour hike, a nice shower and burrito dinner was just what we needed.

Tuesday night was a bit warmer, a low of 33 degrees. We got a leisurely start packing up, and pulled out about 11:45 am. We headed back to the highway, and had another great meal at Taco Cabana, and we were off to New Mexico, where it was H-O-T!

We drove Route 66 thru Tucumcari, NM, a cool old town filled with cheap motels and neon. This looks like a great town to photograph at dusk, but that will have to wait for another trip, when we can spend a few days here.

We arrived in Albuquerque, NM, and after driving the strip, we decided we'd opt for a more expensive hotel, where could do laundry. Another coupie deal, and we're at the Best Western Rio Grande, for $30 less than the AAA rate of $79. Hot and tired, we head out to dinner on foot. After dinner, Caryn happily heads out to do LAUNDRY, and it's right near our room. Three loads and a few hours later, we're restocked with clean clothes, and Caryn has some new Scottish friends, who were also doing laundry during their two week bus tour of the southwest. (They had been at Palo Duro Canyon the night before also).  Delighted to have internet access, we stay up until 1 am, watching TV, and surfing the web.

Thursday morning, and we're off for some shopping in the big city of Albuquerque. First stop, REI, to browse the camping and outdoor items. We come away with a great tiny tea kettle, some new shoelaces, a boot cleaner, a keychain flashlight, and a case for Caryn's iPaq. Also, Mary got some double caffeine Power Gels, just in case. We also checked out some dry bags for storing items on the roof of the van, but decided to go with the custom made bag that Kirkhams is making for the Eurovan Yahoo Group.  Next stop, Sam's Club for a pair of zip off pants, then Wal-mart for assorted sundries, and a set of Lynx Levelers to level the van at campsites. After a quick bite at Sonic Burger, washed down with a diet Lime-aide, we're off to Santa Fe. As often happens on these outdoorsy road trips, we discover that Santa Fe is another over-hyped tourist trap. Perhaps because we've spent so much time in the outdoors, we're jaded by the towns with their too many “cute shops”. Having said that, I must admit that the stop was worth it, because Mary scored a great t-shirt depicting a VW bus w/ the inscription “Road Trip 2000”. We have a quick snack, and blow out of town. En route to Taos, we decide to forego that destination, and cut NW on route 64, to get a jump on the trip to the Four Corners. By this time, it's 7 pm, but Mary is confident she can handle a few hours of driving in the dark. Well, in retrospect that probably would have been a good plan if we we're on the interstate, but these secondary roads are no place to be after dark. After an hour and a half of treachery, not knowing if our fate was to drive off a cliff, or hit one of many deer that were lurking at the side of the road, we arrive in the town of Charma, and jump at the chance to get a room for the night. Three hotels were sold out, but Caryn returned from the office of El Meson Lodge with a key, announcing 104. Mary almost had a stroke, thinking that was the cost of the room, but it was actually the room number. The rate was a somewhat more palpable $70. After a quick bite at the cafe, it was off to bed to watch some Olympics.

Friday morning Caryn woke at 8 am, with the news of her dream that we had bought an Airstream Argosy trailer in a divorce settlement for $5. We were back on the road at 9 am. Route 64 wasn't as terrifying in the daylight, but after a while it did get a bit boring. By 11 am we made it to the town of Farmington, NM, and stopped for some humongous pancakes at the Triangle Cafe. Then it was over to Safeway to stock up on some groceries. There is good news and bad news associated with the grocery stop. The bad news is that the jar of Ragu feel out of the cart, and splashed all over Caryn's sweatshirt. The upside is that she can now look forward to another load of laundry!  We head off to Four Corners, where NM, AZ, UT, and CO all meet, the only place in the US where four states come together. We passed a very cool formation on the way, called “Ship Rock”, which is the basalt core of an old volcano. We actually got to pass it twice, due to Mary's poor navigation, and Caryn's oversight that the compass was now pointing south, instead of north. Oh well, what's an extra 62 miles in the grand scheme of things! The Four Corners is actually part of the Navajo nation, and so we pay our $2 per person admission to to enter, and pose for some silly photos at the actual spot, along w/ every other sucker who paid their $2. We also get to browse the booths where the Indians sell crafts, and Navajo Fry Bread, which we've sampled many times before, although then it was called fried dough. After a quick trip to the Porta-San, Caryn affixes UT, and CO and AZ to the map, and we're back on the road headed to Monument Valley, UT.  About 5 pm we stop just outside Utah at the town of Kayenta, AZ, for a McDonald's sundae. While inside, the rain catches up to us. No problem. Then the hail starts, first pea size hail, then lima bean size!  We watch from the safety of McDonalds, and ponder our fate for the rest the evening. We decide to head to the campground anyway, because it seems clear in that direction, and because Mary refuses to spend $98 for a hotel room in the town of Kayenta, which holds no appeal.

Monument Valley is spectacular, even in the rain. Kudos to Andrea Renault for suggesting this spot; it is definitely a great location. We arrive at Gouldings campground, and for $23, we've got site #46.   This is camping Caryn style; we even have a cable hook up. We make some turkey sausage sandwiches for dinner, and as we cook, Caryn makes more new friends, as three dogs come over and lie down at our site. They must know Caryn is a soft touch. After dinner we built a small campfire, which we've missed due to burn restrictions in Texas and Oklahoma. As we prepare for bedtime, we see lightening, and decide to put our belongings in the van to keep them dry. It turns out we only got the slightest sprinkle, but better safe... you know.   We watch the final episode of Survivor on TV, and then fall asleep while watching John Candy in Summer Rental (a great one).

On to CHAPTER FIVE!